When I first heard about the Bagni San Filippo hot springs in Tuscany, it was a surprise; and even more so, when I visited them!
I thought that after bathing at the hot springs in Saturnia and those in Viterbo, I had experienced the best that central Italy has to offer when it comes to thermal springs…but I was wrong!
In the middle of winter, a friend who is also an environmental guide recommended that I visit the “White Whale,” also known as Fosso Bianco hot springs in Val D’Orcia.
I was immediately intrigued by the name; I find rocks that naturally look like animals or faces very fascinating, and I like to photograph them.
So it seemed obvious to me to organize a two-day trip with my hubby to go and discover one of the best hot Springs in Tuscany and maybe explore a couple of villages in the surroundings.
In this article, you will find useful and essential information to visit a natural wonder that is so little known in Italy.
The White Whale is one of the top natural hot Springs to see in Italy. Reaching this place is very easy, so I highly recommend adding it to your itinerary in Val d’Orcia.
The Bagni San Filippo hot springs are also the most beautiful hot springs near Siena-you can reach them within about an hour’s drive.
ESSENTIAL INFORMATION ABOUT THE BAGNI SAN FILIPPO THERMAL SPRINGS
Read this article all the way through to get enough knowledge to fully enjoy this gift from Mother Nature.
WATER TEMPERATURE
The water temperature of the natural pool where you want to bathe (the White Whale) and where you will take many photographs is about 48°C (118°F), making it perfect even in winter.
Along the path leading to this most beautiful and warmest main pool, you will find other pools with water at a lower temperature, more suitable for the warmer months.
WATER GUSHING OUT OF THE THERMAL SPRINGS CONTAINS
The thermal waters of Bagni San Filippo are sulfurous-sulfate-calcic-magnesium hyperthermal waters. They are recommended because of their analgesic, anti-inflammatory, and muscle-relaxing properties for joints.
They also have anticatarrhal, fluidifying, and antimicrobial properties for mucous membranes.
BEST TIME TO VISIT THE WHITE WHALE IN BAGNI SAN FILIPPO
We visited the Bagni San Filippo thermal springs in early February. Although it was not particularly cold that day, I still recommend visiting this place in winter. Bathing in the pools will prove even more satisfying.
By keeping a towel to dry yourself and your clothes on hand, and avoiding getting your hair wet, the temperature swing on leaving the pools will be easy to manage.
In addition, the thermal water so envelops and warms the body that for a few seconds it will naturally shield you from the cold.
Scroll down this post to the bottom to get to the section where I elaborate on important items to have with you when you visit the White Whale.
HOW TO GET TO BAGNI SAN FILIPPO BY TRAIN AND CAR
From Rome and Florence take a train to Chiusi-Chianciano Terme and then bus directed to Santa Fiora and get off at the Bagni San Filippo stop; or after the train get on a cab.
WHERE TO PARK YOUR CAR
If you arrive in Bagni San Filippo by car, park it along the road where the forest path that will take you to the hot springs begins, namely Via Fosso Bianco St.
WHY IT’S CALLED THE WHALE WHALE AND WHAT TO EXPECT
The White Whale is a natural landmark formed over centuries by the flow of thermal water over a wall of limestone rock. The water comes from the meanders of nearby Mount Amiata, which was a volcano thousands of years ago.
The limestone rock of Fosso Bianco has been shaped to form pointed ends that look like many teeth arranged in an arc over a larger limestone boulder. The result really does resemble the mouth of a whale.
The sound of water flowing over this limestone rock and falling from it into the pool of thermal water at the foot of the rock is rhythmic and hypnotic, accompanying the total release of all tension.
Although there is a no-climb sign on the cliff, locals climb to the highest part of the whale to bathe in a smaller, hidden pool and to take a “shower” under billions of drops of thermal water, just inside the mouth of the whale!
The landscape is surreal, the colors of the rock range from white to green and yellowish, all around is a lush and silent forest.
ADDRESS AND WALKING PATH TO THE HOT SPRINGS
Bagni San Filippo is a tiny village with few inhabitants and few houses. The main attractions in this tiny village are a thermal spa and a few public-access thermal pools (including the White Whale).
Both use the same natural thermal water, only the spa is further downstream than the natural pools and the village.
To get to the beautiful White Whale you have to walk a path through a forest for about 15 minutes.
The path is clear and well-marked. You will also find the starting point on google maps as “Sentiero Fosso Bianco” along Via Fosso Bianco St.
It is located more or less in front of “La Cascata” café, where you can get water and some snacks to take with you to the pool.
WHAT TO BRING TO THE THERMAL POOLS
To fully enjoy this sensory and somewhat adventurous experience at the thermal pools, you need to get a little organized.
My packing list for the Fosso Bianco coincides with that for other natural hot springs in Italy
- A large waterproof bag to hold all the other items. In truth, I am far from elegant when I go to the pools, I prefer practicality. I put everything I need in a hard plastic, waterproof shopping bag.
- While bathing I leave the bag by the tub, where I can see it and reach it in a few steps.
- Slippers closed in the front like crocs. So I can put them on right away once I get out, without having to put my feet on the cold ground while I put on my socks and shoes. You are in the middle of nature here, often there is mud around because it rained.
- Large towel, and even better a robe with a hood, so if I get my head wet I can shield myself from the cold and also have my shoulders covered (I like to visit Hot Springs in winter).
- Spare undergarments (sometimes from the b&b to the hot springs I wear my bathing suit directly under my clothes, and then after bathing I wear my clothes without undergarments to be quicker, however, if you want to go to a restaurant after bathing it is more convenient to have spare clothing on hand)
- Water and some caloric snacks, mineral supplements
- Rock shoes-with rock shoes you will feel much more comfortable and confident getting in and out of the tubs.
- Sneakers-you will need these to walk on the path that leads you to the thermal pools.
- A plastic bag to take away the trash if you make any because you are in a nature reserve that you must leave intact and as clean as you found it.
The water temperature is warm and the composition is sulfurous. After 15 minutes of bathing, I already start to feel the sugar drop.
It is a good idea to stay hydrated (place the water bottle on the rocks surrounding the tub to have it handy), take breaks often (get out of the water before you feel faint), and replenish your sugars immediately after the bath.
NEARBY ATTRACTIONS
There are many small Tuscan villages to visit near the Bagni San Filippo hot springs.
You are sure to have added Monticchiello, Pienza and Castiglion d’Orcia to your Val d’Orcia itinerary.
If you want to explore Tuscany off the beaten path, also travel to the opposite side, to Mount Amiata.
Explore the small towns of Santa Fiora and Castel del Piano. Weather permitting, there are some great walks to be had on Mount Amiata.
WHERE TO STAY NEAR BAGNI SAN FILIPPO
As for accommodation near the hot springs, there are mainly two options that I recommend.
If you want to bathe for several days in a row and enjoy the full benefits of the water, choose a B&B in the small village of Bagni San Filippo. That way, all you need to do to get to the thermal pools is to take a walk. And after a long relaxing bath, it will only take a few minutes to get home!
B&B il Fosso Bianco has elegant and romantic decor. It also has units suitable for the whole family. In addition to breakfast, it offers free WIFI. Check availability and prices here.
Casina delle Sorgentelle, on the other hand, has a simpler décor (the price is also lower) and allows pets. There is room to park your car in front of the entrance to the dwelling. The apartment opens onto a lovely little garden with a table perfect for hosting your dogs. Have a look at this B&B here.
The other option for accommodation, ideal if you are moving with your own car, is the typical farmhouse “Agriturismo” option.
The Palazzo of Barbara and Mimmo is a large country house just outside the village of Bagni San Filippo. It has a wide garden and the restaurant offers both sweet and savory breakfast. There is the possibility of eating excellent Tuscan dishes also for lunch and dinner. Find a room here.
I shared a lot of useful information in this post about Bagni San Filippo hot springs. Be sure to have this guide with you when planning your trip. let me know in the comments if you enjoyed this hidden gem of Tuscany!
If you're passionate about thermal springs, make sure to read my post about the best thermal baths near Rome as well.
